Why Edinburgh Feels Like a Fantasy Novel
I didn’t come to Edinburgh to make a travel video… I came because this city feels like someone painted my dreams and forgot to wake me up. I spent 3 days in Edinburgh, and it felt like stepping into a painting. Hi, I’m Veronica Winters, an artist who chases light in visionary art.

And Edinburgh? It’s a pure fantasy novel for painters. Every corner begs to be sketched. Cobbled streets are older than some countries. Giant stone buildings rising to the sky like they’re telling history about the 16th century. I thought I saw beauty… until Edinburgh burst me open.
Edinburgh’s history unfolds like a painting in layers of volcanic rock, smoke, and northern light. The city began on an extinct volcano that became Castle Rock around 8500BC. By the 7th century, a hillfort- Din Eidyn crowned it. That dramatic silhouette—steep, dark, monumental, unyielding—has obsessed artists ever since.
Pro tip from a creative visitor: Bring a tiny watercolor kit to sketch the colossal castle-like city, palace, and parks in May or June, the best time of the year. Visit the Scottish National Galleries for more inspiration. They are free. The 19th and 20th centuries brought the Scottish Colourists together to paint the northern beauty. (I have a separate video about the best art inside the Scottish National Gallery. Watch it next!)
In the Middle Ages, the immortal town clung to the ridge between castle and Holyrood like a dark brushstroke. Houses rose to 6 storeys in vertical stacking, leaning over narrow closes so tightly that daylight barely reached the cobblestones. Craftsmen and tradesmen alike lived in limited spaces of vertical chaos, monumental houses built upward to accommodate the growing city. By the 1500s, Edinburgh was Scotland’s capital, a crowded, stinking, brilliant place.

Edinburgh is even more beautiful than in the movies. Forget the guidebook highlights for a second. Walk down the Royal Mile– enormous stone houses, lovely people, pure magic. This place feels like The Lord of the Rings, but five minutes from Starbucks.
Mary King’s Close or The Vaults tour doesn’t allow photography or video inside, but offers a glimpse into hardship, sickness, work, and hope of Scottish people centuries ago.
Visit one of the most beautiful, medieval churches in Europe -St Giles on the High Street, unique stained glass windows and Scottish spirit. Founded in 1124 by King David I, the rising church over the Royal Mile has been open for over 900 years.
St Giles’ Cathedral History

- Early Origins: Began as a small Romanesque church, possibly founded around 1124, with its site used for worship for centuries before the current structure.
- Fire & Rebuilding: Severely damaged by fire in 1385, most of the building was rebuilt in the 14th/15th centuries, featuring its iconic crown-shaped tower added in the 1490s.
- Scottish Reformation: Became the center of Scottish Protestantism, with John Knox preaching there after 1559; it was subdivided into multiple churches under one roof.
- Covenanters & Royal History: Site of significant Covenanter events, it hosted state funerals, including that of the Marquis of Montrose, and witnessed royal drama, including riots over a new prayer book.
- Current Status: Now known as the High Kirk, it’s a working church of the Church of Scotland, not technically a cathedral as it lacks a bishop, but remains central to Scottish life.
The Thistle Chapel (Added 1909-1911)
- Purpose: Scotland’s only private chapel for the Order of the Thistle, the nation’s highest chivalric order, founded by James III.
- Design: Created by architect Robert Lorimer, it’s a masterpiece of Scottish Gothic, filled with heraldry, stalls for knights, and unique features like angels playing bagpipes.
Walk through Greyfriars Kirkyard at twilight. Visit a Harry Potter store and cafe to experience magic.
Hike Arthur’s Seat in Holyrood Park. This ancient extinct volcano offers breathtaking views of the palace and busy Scottish city life. See changing exhibitions from the Royal Collection in the Palace of Holyroodhouse, featuring old master paintings, rare furniture, decorative arts and images from the vast photograph collection.
Another high point of the city is Calton Hill, the headquarters of the Scottish Government. Quiet moments on Calton Hill can’t be skipped. An entire fortress city spreads below in the picture-perfect, warm, welcoming sunset.
Visit the castle standing on Castle Rock since the Iron Age. The immortal castle shares historical conflicts, wars, and the Crown Jewels of Scottish monarchs with numerous visitors today. At the top, the city spreads beneath you like someone spilled diamonds across black velvet. Powerful. Emotional. Real. Depending on the hour, you can enjoy a colorful play of brown-stone streets, green trees, and deep blue sea and sky. I came up here to make a discovery and snap pictures for my future art, but realized the city had already been painting me.
Castle: Government by Force In the late 1600s, Scotland was unstable. Arguments over religion and who should be king made government weak. Rulers used soldiers to keep control. The items in the case show how kings and queens from 1660 to 1707 used professional armies led by loyal officers to enforce power. In 1688 the Stewart kings were removed from the throne. The new king, William of Orange, was fighting a big war against France. All of Britain, including Scotland, had to be defended. Scottish soldiers were sent to fight the French.

Edinburgh faced political decline after 1603 when the court moved to London. And in 1767, a young architect, James Craig, won a competition to build a New Town across the valley. Broad streets, elegant squares, pale sandstone terraces—Edinburgh suddenly had perfect neoclassical bones beneath its Gothic skin. It became the center of culture and finance.
If you have three hours, visit the National Museum of Scotland, a fascinating blend of Scottish medieval history, culture, archeology, geology, science, technology, art, and curiosity.
Long Nights that made me smile. Eat: Cullen skink (Cullen skink is a thick, creamy traditional Scottish soup made primarily of smoked haddock, potatoes, and onions), haggis (made with sheep’s heart, liver, and lungs), Scotch pies, millionaire shortbread, anything with whisky in it. Drink: Hot chocolate with Baileys when you feel cold. Listen: There’s live traditional music every single night. Let it mesmerize you.
In the late eighteenth century, Scotland experienced cultural revival. Scientists like the chemist Joseph Black and engineers like James Watt became leaders in science and industrialization. Scientific and industrial changes somewhat eroded the religious beliefs that had previously guided society for centuries.

Intoxicating Romanticism arrived with Sir Walter Scott and Robert Burns in literature. He mythologized Scotland’s past and turned Edinburgh into a stage set of tartan and legend. The Scott Monument (1844), a soaring Gothic spire on Princes Street, still looks like something drawn in pen and ink by a fevered Victorian hand. The ancient city rises over the sunlit trees like in a medieval manuscript.
In the late 19th century, people expressed a lot of interest in artists and their craft. Local and national artists were raised to a celebrity status, sharing their behind-the-scenes painting process in their studios that generated and convinced art collectors to make a sound investment in art. After all, these marketing principles stay the same across decades and even centuries.

Edinburgh felt Like stepping into a Painting. The whole city is a living canvas—performers, painters, tourists spilling into the streets. For centuries, artists have tried to capture it and never quite succeeded. The city always keeps one shadow, one slant of light, one impossible angle still waiting to be drawn.
You can’t call Edinburgh a regular European town. It’s haunted, proud, ancient, mysterious, beautiful, alive. It makes you want to create. It makes you fall stupidly in love with a city you just met.
I did take a ton of pretty pictures. But Edinburgh gave me more than awesome views. It reminded me why I started painting in the first place. If you’re tired, lost, or just need to feel something again… come here. This city still believes in light, Love, and magic. And for 3 days, it made me believe again, too.
So if you’ve ever wanted to feel like the main character in a novel…Come here. Bring a sketchbook and an open heart. Edinburgh will do the rest. The most fascinating city in Europe is yours. i can promise you that Edinburgh is Even More Beautiful Than the Movies.
Drop a heart if this city lives in your soul now, too.

Reformation to Revolution in Scotland
*The following information comes from the museum’s description in Scotland.
At the beginning of the sixteenth century Scotland was a Catholic state governed by the Stewart dynasty (who later spelled their name Stuart). By the close of the seventeenth century the monarchy, church and parliament had all changed drastically. After 1603 the Stuarts, now based in London, were absentee rulers, and the nature of kingship was itself increasingly contested. The huge upheavals of the Reformation saw Protestantism become the nation’s official religion. The collapse of the old church and the dispersal of its lands and wealth brought about a major shift of power and income: new landed classes vied with established noble families for status and influence.
These complex changes had important cultural consequences. With religious painting no longer acceptable there was an increase in demand for secular art forms, portraiture in particular. This coincided with a growing merchant and professional class beginning to commission works of art to display their increased ambition and economic strength. Painted portraits were expensive, and those who acquired them came from the wealthiest levels of society, both old and new. These men and women used portraits to assert ideas of social status as well as to record an individual likeness. Their images played a significant role in the struggles for power, identity and nationhood during this period.
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Between 1760 and 1860, Scotland’s place in the world was dramatically transformed. With the collapse of the Jacobite cause after the Battle of Culloden in 1746, Scots became less politically divided and began to focus instead on cultural, economic and personal advancement.
Edinburgh and Glasgow became centers of philosophical and scientific thought. Scotland’s trade with Britain’s vast overseas Empire expanded dramatically. ‘Improving’ landowners and adventurous entrepreneurs developed new products and processes. With growing confidence and ambition, Scots now took their place across the wider world as soldiers, sailors, and traders; as poets, novelists, and artists; and as politicians and administrators. And while they did so they took increasing pride in their own identity, a development that bore fruit in the poetry and novels of Scotland’s great romantic writers. But this transformation came at great cost. The new imperial economy was built on slavery and warfare, while industrialization destroyed established trades and the mining and burning of coal ravaged the natural environment. The result was a period that has left a complex, and sometimes troubling, legacy – a legacy that we, in our own era of economic and environmental crises, are still struggling to manage and understand.
Cultural Revival in Scotland

In the later eighteenth century, Scotland’s cultural revival gave it a central role in European life. Scientists like the chemist Joseph Black and engineers like James Watt laid the foundations for modern science and industry. These achievements were paralleled in literature by the intoxicating romanticism of Robert Burns and Sir Walter Scott. These changes, however, also gave rise to new challenges. Science and technology eroded the religious beliefs that had previously given society its shared values. Mechanical power marked the beginning of our destructive dependence on fossil fuels. The spell woven by Scott’s poetry and novels could all too easily hide Scotland’s rapidly changing social reality behind a veil of romantic escapism.
Nowhere are these paradoxes sharper than in Scotland’s extensive involvement in Britain’s growing empire. Able colonial administrators, such as the lawyer Sir Thomas Strange, sought to apply enlightened principles to their work. At the same time. however, the Atlantic ‘triangular trade’ was taking thousands of slaves from Africa to the plantations of North America and the Caribbean, and shipping slave-produced sugar, rum and tobacco to the British Isies. The plantation trade enriched Glasgow’s merchant elite and provided secure incomes for the thousands of middle and upper class Scots with plantation investments. Others, however, were moved by the sufferings of slaves such as George Dale, whose biography is reproduced on this panel. Often drawing strength from deeply held religious and moral principles, they opposed the appalling human cost of the slave trade, in the face of fierce resistance, abolitionists, including the prominent Scottish liberal lawyer and politician, Lord Brougham, finally brought slavery to an end in 1838.

Museum on the Mound: History of Money
The following information comes from the Museum on the Mound, a fun, free, and informative museum you can visit alone or with your kids. It won’t take much time but yield surprising facts about history of money. Its address: St. James’s Place Bank, the Mound, Scotland. Museumonthemound.com
Scottish Coins: A Simple History

Coins are metal pieces made to a standard weight and value. The stamps on them prove this.
Early Coins in Scotland The first coins in Scotland came from Celtic and Roman times. They arrived through trade or as pay for soldiers. Roman coins usually showed the emperor’s head. This silver denarius features Antoninus Pius.
First Scottish-Made Coins In 1136, during King David I’s reign, Scotland began minting its own coins. These were silver pennies. For almost 150 years, pennies were the only coins made. People cut them in half or quarters for small change.
Scottish Coins Develop Their Own Style At first, Scottish pennies looked like English ones. Soon they changed. They showed the king’s side-profile and the title “REX SCOTORUM” (King of Scots). You can see both on this Alexander III penny from 1280–1286.
Scottish symbols appeared too: the thistle, the lion rampant, and Saint Andrew.
New Coin Sizes and Gold Coins More people needed coins and silver prices changed, so new coins were made often. In 1357–1367, King David II introduced the groat (meaning “great coin”). It was worth four pence and bigger, giving more room for designs.
Gold coins started under King Robert III. His gold “lion” coin (1390–1403) was worth five shillings. Most people never used such big coins. Everyday buying and paying used small silver coins called placks, bawbees, and hardheads.
Silver Shortage and Cheaper Coins Silver became scarce, so low-grade “billon” coins (mixed with copper) became common. Scottish coins lost value compared to English ones. The exchange rate reached 12 Scottish pounds to 1 English pound.
Copper coins, like the James III penny, later replaced billon for small amounts. The James VI plack (four pence) was one of the last billon coins.
End of Separate Scottish Coins After the Union of the Crowns in 1603, Scottish coins looked more like English ones. This £12 gold unit from the reign of James VI shows Great Britain on one side, but in England it was only worth £1.
The Act of Union in 1707 created one currency for Great Britain. After more than 500 years, Scotland’s own coinage ended.
Modern Changes Precious metals were replaced by token coins (not worth their metal value). New machines allowed mass production. The George III “cartwheel” twopence of 1797 was one of the first coins made by steam press.
The biggest change came on Decimal Day – 15 February 1971. The old pound (20 shillings or 240 pence) became a new pound of 100 new pence.

What is The Mound? The Mound is a man-made hill built from soil dug for Edinburgh’s New Town. It was once called the Earthen Mound and needed two million cartloads of earth. Locals also named it “Geordie Boyd’s Mud Brig” after the tailor who laid wooden planks so customers could reach the New Town.
The Bank Buys the Site In 1800 the Bank’s directors bought this land from the Town Council for £3,500 (about £117,000 today). The ground was unstable and caused big problems.
The 1780 painting by John Gabriel Stedman shows the site before the Bank arrived. The old North Bridge was the only way into the city from the north. Today The Mound is a busy road linking Old and New Edinburgh.
Food for Thought The Mound also contains tons of old rubbish. Recent building work uncovered heaps of oyster shells under the Bank. Old Town residents used the site as a dump before 1800. Oysters were cheap food for poor people. In 1700, 100 oysters cost 16 shillings Scots – about five pence today.
National Museum of Scotland
The following information comes from the national Museum of Scotland, a great free museum to visit with a wide variety of artifacts. Plan to spend at least 2 hours there! It has a lot of history, Roman, Asian and even Egyptian art. Address: Chambers st, Edinburgh
Mary Queen of Scots Casket This is a modern silver copy of a rare French silver-gilt casket from the late 1400s or early 1500s. The original was made in Paris and used to store jewelry or religious items. The real casket is famous because it allegedly held the “Casket Letters”. These letters were said to prove Mary, Queen of Scots, was involved in the murder of her husband Lord Darnley and had a relationship with Lord Bothwell. In 1568 the letters (kept in a similar silver casket) were shown as evidence against Mary at a hearing in Westminster. She stayed a prisoner in England for 19 years until her execution in 1587. The original casket was later owned by the Dukes of Hamilton for over 340 years as a precious relic of Mary.
Silver copy details: Ornate scrolling leaves, line engraving, and the Hamilton family coat of arms. Possibly made in England in the 20th century.
Mary Queen of Scots: Renaissance Queen Mary was sent to the elegant French court at age 5. In 1558, at just 15, she married the French prince François. The portrait shows her as a fashionable young Scottish queen covered in pearls. A year later she became Queen of France too. When her husband died and she returned to Scotland as a widow in 1561, people were amazed by her jewels. A bishop wrote that she had “the most excellent pearls and costly ornaments in Europe”.
The gold necklace, set with pearls, rubies and garnets, was said to be a gift from Mary to her friend Mary Seton. It gives a glimpse of how magnificently she dressed. (Late 16th or early 17th century. On loan from a private collection.)
Portrait of Mary Queen of Scots (1542–1587) Painted by François Clouet, c. 1558. Royal Collection Trust / His Majesty King Charles III.


Tomb of Mary Queen of Scots Cast of the original in Westminster Abbey, London (1606–1612) by Cornelius Cure. James VI (Mary’s son) had this grand tomb built, possibly to ease his guilt for not helping his mother while she was alive. It became a symbol of her rehabilitation long after her execution in 1587. (Lent by National Galleries of Scotland.)

In 1290 Scotland had no king. Thirteen men claimed the throne, including Robert the Bruce’s grandfather. England’s King Edward I tried to take over. Scottish heroes William Wallace and later Robert the Bruce fought back. Bruce became King of Scots.
The Kingdom of the Scots: Monarchy and Power Power in medieval Scotland belonged to the king, the Church and the nobles. The gallery shows objects they used to show status and control – weapons, banners and jewelry. The first object you see is the Bute Mazer – a drinking bowl that symbolizes royal power. The lion in the center represents King Robert the Bruce, surrounded by the shields of his strongest supporters. The Stewart family ruled Scotland for most of the medieval period and were the most powerful dynasty in the land.
Gothic and Renaissance Styles in Scotland Gothic style (Middle Ages): Pointed arches, detailed carving, Christian and heraldic designs. Seen in metalwork, glass and wood. Example: Beaton panels.
Renaissance style: Revival of ancient Greek and Roman ideas. Focus on natural human forms, portraits and secular subjects. Example: Carved medallions from Stirling Castle.
Scottish Renaissance style: Mix of new Renaissance ideas with traditional Scottish and Celtic designs. Produced beautiful, original work. Example: Cadboll cup in Case 3.
The royal Stewart court brought these new ideas to Scotland. Kings loved art, music and learning and paid artists to create fresh designs.
Example: Carved wood armorial panel from Linlithgow Palace, mid-1500s. Shows royal arms (one deliberately damaged). Combines Gothic pillars with Renaissance warrior busts.
Ceremonial Swords From the 1100s, Scottish kings gave land and power to nobles. Swords became symbols of that authority and justice. Sheriffs were royal officials who kept law and order. The grand ceremonial sword of the Sempill family shows their role as hereditary sheriffs of Renfrewshire. Swords were carried in processions and used in knighting ceremonies.
- Claymore with “IHS” on the blade (early 1500s)
- Ceremonial sword of the Sempills of Elliestoun (1400s) – given by Maria Janet, Baroness Sempill
- Two-handed Lowland sword (late 1500s) – given by Mr Wight

Five generations of the Stevenson family designed lighthouses around Scotland’s dangerous coasts and shared their ideas worldwide. Their work saved countless lives and ships. The lens was used at Inchkeith until 1985, when the last keeper left and the light became automatic.
The Most Underrated Art Gallery in Europe? Edinburgh Stole My Heart in 4K
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